Happy to share the technique. At first I tried to find a cheap supplier and tracked down some companies in India with a per unit cost of under $2.00 but the catch is you have to order at least $500.00 of merchandise and I didn't want to go into business on my own. After a lot of experimentation I came up with something that works well for me. 
The frame is made of "music wire" obtained at local hobby stores or online thru Tower Hobbies. The brass tubing is from the same source.( K&S Music Wire size 0.062,  36" (9) $ 10.69 ) ( K&S Round Brass Tube 3/32 ) { http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI00...&search=Go}

I use a dremel cutoff wheel to cut 6 to 7 inch lengths of wire and 2 inch lengths of tubing.
Mark the middle of the wire. Using a nail in a piece of 2x4 anchored in a vise bend the wire at the mid point as far as you can.(bare hands or pliers work equally well).
Use pliers to squeeze the bend until the 2 limbs of wire are as parallel as possible. sometimes I use a vise to squeeze the bend tight. About 1/2 in below the hairpin bend you created use pliers to bend the limbs out a bit then grasp the end of each side about 3/4 in up and bend them in toward each other. at this point the lengths may not be equal so even them up with the cutoff wheel. i use the top of the wheel and gradually grind them to same length. 

NEW ADDITION: I have devised a jig and found a great tool for making the wire frame. The jig is a board with a nail to start the wire bend. Next drill 2 holes, just big enough for the wire, about 2 in. apart and at 15-20 degrees outward angle. This secures the ends of the bent wire while you crimp the middle to form the hairpin bend. Fencing pliers work well for this part of the procedure. The rear jaws are grooved and keep the wire limbs in line while you squeeze them. Picture and diagram follow:

After cutting the tubing i smoothe the ends with the cutoff wheel or file or sandpaper. Place the tube in an electric drill just like a bit. using a nail punch drill the tube onto the punch slowly to flare it. i do both ends just enough to get a small glass bead to seat well. Careful - hot! you can also flare using the tip of an awl or ice pick with a little skewing motion. you'll learn how far to go without splitting the tube after a few tries.

The knuckle in the wire frame makes a nice niche to lay the tube into. Clip them together with an alligator clip. Put a little rosin on one side and lay on a small length of metal solder. I use a small torch to melt the solder then clean the joint up with some alcohol. Take care not to get the rosin into the tube. I smoothe out the joint with the top of the cutoff wheel.
The spool grippers are about 1/2 in wooden balls from the craft store. Drill a small hole and superglue onto the wire ends. The "ceramic" inserts are small glass beads. I think i use no.8 size. Glue them by touching the rim of the tube on a small drop of superglue and just put it on top of a bead sitting on your work surface. If the bead is a little crooked straighten it out with a bodkin. The lower bead is easy to place with a bodkin to hold it in and a bit of glue applied around the edge.
To finish I like to put a small length of shrink tubing around the joint, feels and looks nicer. 
Sounds like a lot of steps but you can make a bunch at a time customized to your hand and you're done forever. I have not tried J-B Weld to secure the tube but I have tried epoxy for the joint and it doesn't last.

Tube flared w nail punch
Czech glass seed beads
Frame after bending (this one not pretty enough to be finished)

Frame and tube ready to be soldered

Two tubing sizes – thread  and floss/chenille (0.062 and 1/8" brass tubing)
9/16” craft balls ($1.00 makes 6 bobbins)
Czech glass seed beads size 8/0 (about 2.5 mm)(about $2.00 makes ???many bobbins)

Examples finished w shrink tubing
 
	Seed Bead White 8/0 
Sold By: Ounce
Pricing Info

1-3
4-11
12+

$1.99 
$1.89
$1.59

CZECH GLASS SEED BEADS	 	
	Approximate Size: 2.5mm 
Approximate Beads: 1050	

Evolution

Rite Bobbin style experiments
\
Good luck and have fun.